8 Leading Trends From London Fashion Week to Have on Your Radar

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Courtesy of Tove, Christopher Kane / Eudon Choi via Getty Images

Quiet luxury is a trend we've seen resonating for the past few years, and its effects could definitely be felt on the runways. Of course, there was big main character energy elsewhere with total show-off clothes, but there was an undeniable undercurrent  of simple but elevated designs. From Tove to Eudon Choi to Christopher Kane (whose LFW show was anything but "safe"), we spotted perfectly-executed sheaths and column gowns. 

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Erdem, Dilara Findikoglu via Getty Images / Courtesy of David Koma

I'm usually reluctant to bundle different aesthetics together but, in the interest of time-saving and concise editing, indulge me. Of course, we're talking about autumn/winter, and the palettes across the board reflect that, but, if nothing else, this season was a love letter to black and all the things that happen in the shadows. BDSM was a recurring theme across a multitude of catwalks, though perhaps it is best represented in David Koma's latex-lathered collection. Thigh-high boots, bra tops, safety pins holding together teeny skirts and gaping tops; sex is woven throughout the collections. In tandem there was what seems like a homage to Wednesday Addams, for reasons which I think are quite obvious. Erdem and Bora Aksu both created dresses and coats that we'd very much like to see costume designer and long-time Tim Burton collaborator, Colleen Atwood, pick up for season two. 

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Courtesy of Christopher Kane / JW Anderson via Getty Images

We heard it before we saw it; the chirping of chicks that reverberated around the location on the northern fringes of London in which Christopher Kane held its show. Then, turning a corner, we saw it; a dress adorned with a repeat-motif of baby chicks. This set the tone for what would be two more interesting prints at Kane; the brand's now Instagram-famous piglet dress and one, perhaps more subdued than its contemporaries, covered with rats. Bonkers and brilliant; we'd expect nothing less. However, this affinity for mad motifs continued across the LFW spectrum, with duck prints at Daniel Lee's reimagined Burberry and JW Anderson exploring ways to wear a Tesco shopper.

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Courtesy of Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, Huishan Zhang

When comparing the last few seasons with one another, surface adornments have either been non-existent, with sheer fabrics that showcase what you have underneath serving as a sort of adornment in their own right, or they've been heavily crystallised; everything from dresses to boots to bags to tops have been smattered in rhinestones as our appetite for the fanciful peaked post-lockdown. This season, however, things have quietened, but only slightly. The new details to note came by way of pretty knots and bows, with doll-like and debutant-style dresses giving the collections a dress-up-like quality. Even as something of a minimalist, I myself find this too sweet to resist. 

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Courtesy of David Koma / Eudon Choi and Bora Aksu via Getty Images

A key trend in the spring/summer 2023 collections, the recent runways confirmed that designers aren't through with their exploration of siren saffron. This is good news if you've already bought into the trend upon our advice this season, as it's now clear this is a colour we'll be wearing well into 2024, preferably head-to-toe, as dictated at David Koma, Eudon Choi, and Bora Aksu. 

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SS Daley via Getty Images / Courtesy of Simone Rocha, Paul & Joe 

Nautical is a trend that we usually see resurge in the spring, but London Fashion Week designers are never ones to play by the rules. From layers of stripes at SS Daley (who knew Sir Ian McKellen looked so good in a sailor cap) to jaunty neckties and cute collars at Simone Rocha and Paul & Joe respectively, it's time to start practising your knots. 

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Courtesy of Tove / Eudon Choi, Emilia Wickstead via Getty Images

You've told us how into your workwear you are this season, as our articles on the subject are some of our most-clicked. And it would seem that designers are also tapping into our desire to look the professional part, with many building their collections upon tailoring and the foundations of officewear, albeit with elevated interpretations. Blazers with intricate clasps, suiting with spliced hems, and dresses layered with cutout knits were just some of the outfits we'd like to copy and paste onto ourselves Monday to Friday. Even Jakke, a label known for its faux fur, held its presentation in an '80s-style office, which was perhaps one of the most prevalent moments from LFW on social media. 

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Roksanda via Getty Images / Courtesy of Christopher Kane, Molly Goddard

From full-on ruffle bustles at Christopher Kane to the dramatic shapes at Roksanda, finished with froths of tulle at Molly Goddard, there was no shortage of fabric on the autumn/winter 2023 runway. Shape will be a key player for the season ahead, so embrace it. Look for unexpected ways to channel volume (might I bring your attention to the bustles at Christopher Kane once more) and you'll remain ahead of the curve.