I Asked 10 Skin Experts How to Actually Get Rid of Acne—Here's What They Said

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Ahead, I speak to nine skin experts about everything from what acne is and how to get rid of it to how to look after spot-prone skin and their professional product recommendations for dealing with breakouts. Keep scrolling for the full low-down.

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So before we get into how to treat acne, it's important to understand what actually causes it. "We wish there were a straightforward answer to this question," say ZitSticka founders Robbie Miller and Daniel Kaplan. "The answer is as layered and nuanced as breakouts are annoying." However, it's clear that hormones are most definitely at play when it comes to the leading cause of acne. "A 2013 Brazilian study of people with adult acne found that the majority of the women surveyed had higher-than-average levels of both androgen and dehydroepiandrosterone—two hormones involved in menstruation," explain Miller and Kaplan. "Unfortunately, due to hormones, it's documented that women disproportionately suffer from acne compared with men."

As for the physical effects on the skin? "Regardless of whether you are a teenager with acne or an adult, the changes occurring in our skin when we suffer with acne are the same," says Anita Sturnham, MD, a GP specialising in skin health. "We see enlarged, inflamed pores, a build-up of sebum and old skin cells clogging these pores, and we see an overgrowth of acne-causing bacteria. Hey, presto, add these things together, and we get breakouts. The things that trigger these changes can be multifactorial. In my experience, there is often a hormonal trigger. For teens, this can be due to the fluctuating hormones in puberty and later in life, typically, sex hormones and/or adrenal hormone imbalance."

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However, there's another factor that's undoubtedly contributing to a rise in the cases of adult acne, in particular, and that's stress. "When we're stressed, we produce more androgens, which stimulate the oil glands and hair follicles in the skin, leading to outbreaks," explains Osman Bashir Tahir, MBBS, MS, MRCS, MSc.

Of course, learning to keep calm and carry on isn't much use when anyone dealing with acne will know that waking up to a new crop of spots is stress-inducing in itself. However, I've taken some comfort in the fact that acne is way more common than I actually realised. "Acne affects over 80% of the population at some point in their lives, so people who escape unscathed are incredibly fortunate," says Mahto.  

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The experts were unanimous that over-exfoliation and picking spots were two of the biggest mistakes that people make when treating acne-prone skin at home. In fact, not only do both things leave skin feeling inflamed and sensitive, but also, long-term, you're "more at risk of deeper scars and hyperpigmentation that are more difficult to treat," says Tahir. However, I was more surprised to learn that every skin expert I spoke to mentioned the importance of caring gently for the skin and not being afraid of hydration.

"Thinking that you need to remove all sources of moisture from your skin in case it might clog pores" is something that we should all be re-evaluating, says Omorovicza co-founder Margaret de Heinrich. "If your skin is lacking hydration, it can overcompensate by producing even more oil." 

Neighbourhood Botanicals founder Micaela Nisbet agrees, stating that over-drying is the biggest mistake that people make. "When spots are coming to a head or at a head, they need drying and antibacterial treatments. After that, they need healing hydration," Nisbet explains. "Don't continue to put drying acne treatments onto spots that need to heal."

"There's definitely a misconception that acne is caused by dirty skin, and I think a lot of us take that into adult life," says Scientia founder Tiffany Salmon. "We look for products that are going to get rid of oil, strip the skin and dry out spots, but often that's going to do more damage than good. Yes, you want to look for key ingredients and actives that target those breakouts, but you also want to make sure you're not overwashing or over-stripping the skin too, as that's going to damage your moisture barrier, trigger excess sebum production and potentially make things worse."

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Acne is such a broad skin condition that it's hard to prescribe general advice that can work for everyone. "The kind of spots you are experiencing will determine what kind of treatment program to embark on," explains skin cosmetician and founder of his eponymous skincare brand Ole Henriksen. "Some constants should be [using] gentle cleansing products that don’t strip or irritate the skin; [looking] for products that contain salicylic acid, as this can help keep pores clean and blockage free; [drinking] plenty of water; and a good vitamin B complex can help with stress too."

Experts were also keen to stress the importance of going back to basics when it comes to skincare for acne-prone skin—something which I definitely struggle with in my role as a beauty editor when I'm constantly testing and trialling different products. "Follow a stripped-back regime that prioritises reducing inflammation and strengthening and rebuilding the skin barrier," says Tahir.

And in terms of formulations? "Stay away from using facial oils, cleansers and thick creamy textures in product," advises Mahto. "Stick to light or gel-like formulations. Ideally, the product should be labelled as noncomedogenic. Whilst this is not a guarantee the product will not make you break out, it is better than a product that is not labelled at all."