I Have Acne Scarring, and These Are the Only Products That Help

Photo:

@ALLISONMCNAMARA

First of all, let’s delve into why some of us get acne scars. “Acne scarring occurs during the healing process [of a spot]. It happens when there is an imbalance in collagen biosynthesis,” explains Zainab Laftah, consultant dermatologist for La Roche-Posay. “It can present as ice-pick scars (deep, narrow and pitted), rolling scars (broad depressions with sloping edges), boxed scars (broad depressions with sharp edges) and hypertrophic scars (elevated),” she adds.

However, it’s also worth noting here that scarring isn’t always a textural change. In many cases, acne scarring can simply present as pigmented changes without causing any noticeable differences to texture. Medical consultant Ifeoma Ejikeme explains, “Acne scars can be a change in colour or texture. Changes in colour could present as hyperpigmentation or post-inflammatory erythema (redness).”

Photo:

@EMMAHOAREAU

The best way to ensure you don’t have to deal with acne scarring is by helping to prevent it. As with everything in skincare, prevention is almost always easier than treatment. “I know it is such a cliché, but the number one thing to prevent acne scarring is not picking at your spots,” reveals Ahmed El Muntasar, NHS and cosmetic doctor. “For people of colour specifically, there is a risk of basic inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which means the spot is causing inflammation in the skin. The cells responsible for melanin production make more melanin around it, and that’s when dark little spots can occur. If you are prone to that, using ingredients like vitamin C will brighten the skin and also prevent it from happening,” he adds.

Another key element in preventing acne scarring is daily SPF application. “A robust skincare routine can minimise the occurrence of breakouts. Using a daily sunscreen also helps reduce scarring,” adds Ejikeme.

Photo:

@EMMAHOAREAU

The extent to which scars can be treated and how totally depends upon the type of scarring you have. “It is difficult to erase all acne scars. However, a number of treatment modalities can be used to improve their appearance,” says Laftah. Any scar that has left severe textural change, particularly if that involves indentation in the skin, will typically require clinical treatment. It is best to book in for a consultation with a doctor for such treatments.

“A general rule of thumb is if the scars are indented, you need treatment that lifts off the skin and flattens the scar. Microneedling uses a medical device that creates microscopic holes in the skin that are filled with collagen to flatten it out. Sometimes you can use a touch of dermal fillers on the scar itself. Microdermabrasion or peels could also be an option,” says El Muntasar. Similarly, clinical treatment is also often necessary for extreme raised scarring.

When it comes to pigmented changes, however, treatment can be undertaken at home with skincare products. “Pigmented scars require tyrosinase inhibitors, and redness in the skin can be treated with azelaic acid,” says Ejikeme. When it comes to inflammatory redness and pigmentation, time is also a key healer. “The skin changes will gradually fade with time, and actives including niacinamide, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, azelaic acid and retinoids will help. Careful sun protection is essential to prevent worsening of redness and pigmentation,” says Laftah. 

As an all-rounder, retinoids will also help minimise the appearance of scarring, including mild textural changes. “Retinoids are generally a great option. They increase your cell turnover so that fresh skin from underneath comes to the surface quicker. Although, the best option is tretinoin, the strongest form of prescription vitamin A,” reveals El Muntasar.

For the best products to treat mild acne scarring, keep scrolling.